Controversial New References vs. Old References (Panda 116500LN vs. 126500LN, John Mayer vs. John Mayer 2.0 (Masters), Platona 116506 vs. 126506, Royal Oak 15500 vs. 15510, Nautilus 5980 vs. 5990, VC 4500V vs. 4520V)

When it comes to many things, new is undoubtedly better than old. Take socks and food as two great examples. Yet, if you find yourself discussing new versus old with a watch collector, this doesn’t always ring true. 

Typically, there are fundamental differences between new and old watches that can be either an advantage or a drawback. New watches can offer advanced performance, accuracy, and materials, while old watches are prized for their historical significance, rarity, and potential for appreciation. 

Whether an old watch or a new watch is ‘better’ even comes down to the models you’re comparing. Below, we compare both new and old references to highlight the key differences and why they’re causing such a debate. 

Rolex Daytona ‘Panda’ – 116500LN vs. 126500LN 

It’s clear to see that Rolex stuck with a winning formula when creating both the 116500LN and 126500LN references. Both ‘Panda’ watches are very similar, with the 116500LN being produced from 2016 to 2023, and the 126500LN being produced from 2023 onwards. However, there certainly are some key differences between the two. 

• Movement: The 116500LN features Caliber 4130 with a 72-hour power reserve without the chronograph running, while the 126500LN boasts the new generation 4131 with more efficiency and a 72-hour reserve. 
• Case: The 116500LN is more traditional in its asymmetries with the lugs and crown guards, whereas the 126500LN is more symmetrical with redesigned crown guards, flatter flanks, and a slimmer profile. 
• Bracelet: There have only been subtle updates to the bracelet from the 116500LN to the 126500LN. The 116500LN has an oyster bracelet with solid links – with the inner links polished and the outer links brushed. There is an Easylink 5mm adjustment and older end-link and clasp geometry. The newer 126500LN differs slightly with reshaped end links and an enhanced clasp for a more comfortable fit.  

The Winner: 116500LN

There’s no denying that collectors love many aspects of the 126500LN, like the new technology, the modern tweaks for aesthetics, and its possible long-term value. However, the earlier 116500LN comes out on top with many collectors. 

The 116500LN has a purer design, more balanced dials, and more features that promote comfort for the wearer, like the case curves and less bulk in the overall design. 

John Mayer vs. John Mayer 2.0 (Masters)

The ‘John Mayer’ Daytona refers to the yellow gold Daytona watch with a green dial by Rolex. Officially known as the Rolex Daytona 116508, this watch gained cult status after musician and Rolex collector John Mayer vocally endorsed it. That endorsement, coupled with its discontinuation in 2023, has made it a highly desirable collector’s piece. 

However, that wasn’t the last we were going to see from the John Mayer watch. In 2025, Rolex released the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 126508, also known as the ‘Masters’ and ‘John Mayer 2.0,’ as a refreshed version of the Daytona 116508. It features a bright green and golden dial, spray-coated counters, 18-carat gold applique hour markers, and a range of advanced features.  

• Movement: The John Mayer Daytona 116508 features the standard Daytona movement, Caliber 4130, with a 72-hour power reserve, whereas the Masters boasts the Calibre 4131 with perpetual, mechanical chronograph, self-winding movement. Other specifications are similar to those of the original John Mayer Daytona, such as the approximate 72-hour power reserve. 
• Case: Both the 116508 and 126508 have an eye-catching 40mm case in yellow gold and a matching gold bezel. However, the 126508 has a fixed bezel with an engraved tachymetric scale in 18-carat yellow gold. 
• Bracelet: You’ll find an elegant gold oyster bracelet on the 116508 bracelet and an oyster bracelet with three-piece solid links in 18-carat yellow gold on the 126508. 

The Winner: A Tie

There is no unanimous winner, with both the John Mayer Daytona 116508 and the more recent Daytona 126508 offering something exciting for collectors. Some collectors appreciate the classic appeal of the John Mayer Daytona, particularly its green dial paired with yellow gold, which adds a ‘wow’ factor. Its scarcity due to being discontinued also drives its desirability. 

Others prefer the new, more advanced features of the more recent Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 126508. It features an updated caliber, offering the latest movement with improved efficiency and enhanced shock resistance compared to the previous model. It also has a refined, contemporary design, a sleeker case, and a more modern, vibrant, and lacquered green finish. 

Rolex Platona – 116506 vs. 126506

The Rolex Platona 116506 was released in 2013 to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Daytona. It was the first platinum Daytona ever made and immediately impressed collectors. A decade later, the 126506 was released as an updated version with meaningful changes.  

• Movement: the 116506 is powered by the ever-popular Caliber 4130, renowned for its reliability. However, the 126506 was updated to the Caliber 4131, which features a more refined finish and improved efficiency.
• Case: Both references have 40mm 950 platinum cases, but with some distinct differences. The 126506 has more balanced and thinner crown guards, a thinner profile, and flatter case sides. There were also significant changes in the bezel between the models, with the 116506 featuring a Cerachrom brown ceramic bezel, and the 126506 boasting a platinum rim around the brown insert. 
• Bracelet: Both Rolex Platona models have a heavy platinum oyster bracelet with polished center links and brushed outer links. However, comfort has also been prioritized in the 126506 reference with reshaped end links, an updated clasp, and improved taper. 

The Winner: 

It’s clear to see that the 126506 is desirable for its technological upgrades and improved comfort. However, the original 116506 still finds favor with collectors. It’s prized for being the very first Platona, so it’s seen as more pure and iconic. Those are not perceptions that new models can change. 

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak – 15500 vs. 15510

To someone who doesn’t collect watches, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15500 and 15510 are the same watch. These watches do, indeed, look similar. However, we’ll cover their key differences below.

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15500 was introduced in 2019 as the successor to the 15400 model. The goal was to modernize the design and case proportions. To coincide with the Royal Oak’s 50th anniversary, the 15510 was launched by Audemars Piguet in 2022. This model underwent a few design and movement updates. 

• Movement: The 15500 features Audemars Piguet’s in-house automatic movement,  the Caliber 4302, which has a 70-hour power reserve. The 15510 has the same caliber but features an updated openworked rotor and more refinement in the finishing. It, too, has a 70-hour power reserve. 
• Case: Both references have 41mm stainless-steel cases, but the 15510 has more refinement with sharper bevels, cleaner transitions, and a thinner case.  
• Bracelet: Both models have a Royal Oak integrated bracelet with polished bevels and brushed finishing. However, the 15510 has thinner links and a reworked clasp for a sleeker appearance. 

The Winner: 15510

It’s not often that a newer model wins the hearts of collectors, but that appears to be the case with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15510. The 15500 laid the groundwork to modernize the reference from the previous 15400 model, but the 15510 is where all the refinements and upgrades have truly shone. Collectors also love how the 15510 is slimmer and more balanced. 

Patek Philippe Nautilus – 5980 vs 5990

As a collector, it can be hard to decide whether the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5980 or 5990 is more desirable and deserving of space in a collection. Both come from the same family but serve different purposes.

The 5980 was launched in 2006 and was the first Nautilus to feature a chronograph. The 5990 followed in 2014, known as the ‘Travel Time Chronograph’ with a chronograph featuring a dual timezone. The iconic design was maintained, but this reference undoubtedly had more functionality than its predecessor. 

• Movement: The 5980 is powered by the Caliber CH 28-520 C, which is an automatic flyback chronograph movement. The 5990 has a Caliber CH 28-520 C FUS with a dual-time mechanism and day/night indicators. 
• Case: Both watches have 40.5mm cases, but they aren’t quite the same. The 5980 model’s case is clean and rounded, while the 5990 has pushers in the left case flank to adjust the second timezone. As a result, the case is also slightly thicker. 
• Bracelet: There are no structural changes in the bracelet between the models, with both featuring a Nautilus bracelet with brushed links and polished bevels. However, due to the added features on the 5990, it wears heavier. 

The Winner: 5980

For frequent travelers, the 5990 is a practical companion that will take pride of place on your bedside cabinet. However, in terms of desirability for collectors, the 5980 often takes the top spot. It’s more aesthetically harmonious with a purer design and cleaner dial layout. It’s also more historically significant since it’s the first Nautilus Chronograph. 

Vacheron Constantin Overseas – 4500V vs. 4520V

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas is renowned as the flagship of the sports-luxury line. The 4500V was first introduced in 2016. The 4520V followed in 2023 as a more elegant, refined, and wearable timepiece. 

• Movement: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas 4500V features the manufacturer’s in-house Caliber 5100, with a 60-hour power reserve and visible center rotor through the sapphire caseback. The 4520V has a Caliber 4400 with a 60-hour power reserve and a far thinner profile. 
• Case: While both models have 41mm stainless-steel cases, the thickness of the 4500V is 11mm compared to the 4520V model of just 8mm. As a result, the 4520V is one of the slimmest sports-luxury watches on the market. 
• Bracelet: Both references have the signature quick-change system, so wearers can swap between the stainless-steel bracelet, rubber strap, and leather strap. However, the 4520V model wears more comfortably due to its lighter weight. 

The Winner: 4500V

Collectors admire the slim profile and elegance of the 4520V, but the broad appeal and versatility of the 4500V make it the preferred option by many collectors. 

Explore the Best Luxury Watches in DFW with Wolvyn 

Whether you prefer the modernity and technology of new watches or the historical significance of old watches, you can find a broad range of options to suit your tastes at Wolvyn in Dallas-Fort Worth. 

Explore our leading brands today, including Rolex, Patek Philippe, Richard Mille, Audemars Piguet, and Cartier.